My family and I do it nearly every time we drive to our regular Colorado Ski Country resorts, and nearly every time, I gaze out the window, wondering what it would be like to skip the Eisenhower Tunnel land ski there. But before I bring my 6th and 7th-grade kids there, I wanted to track down a longtime Loveland Ski Area skier – Noelle Campbell – and have her answer a few questions about the so-called family-friendly vibe and what her overall feelings were on the ski area.
1. When—and why—did you start skiing at Loveland?
Loveland Ski Area – Dustin Schaeffer
As a Colorado native, I moved back to Colorado in 2016 after 15 years of living in various ski resort towns nationally and internationally. Living in Golden at the time with two small kids, I found that Loveland was incredibly kid-friendly. It was also the closest, most affordable and most relaxed resort that also offered extreme expert terrain for my husband and me to ski.
Loveland provides it all: expert terrain, an entire valley for beginners, cat skiing on the Continental Divide, family-friendly après—all for an affordable price.
2. What makes it different from other ski areas, in Colorado and beyond?
Loveland Ski Area – Dustin Schaeffer
We love the laid back, low key atmosphere of Loveland. It’s the locals’ mountain with terrain for every ability and age!
3. How is Loveland suited for families; what makes it family-friendly?
Loveland Ski Area – Dustin Schaeffer
Our family adores Loveland Ski Resort. With promises of hot chocolate and whipped cream at the end of the day, my kids have spent many days at Loveland practicing their skills with our family and with the very experienced Loveland Ski School. My oldest, now 7, learned to ski in the Valley and is now making turns down the Steeps off Chet’s Dream! My little guy, now 3, is learning quickly and will be skiing consistently with all of us before we know it.
4. What are some of your favorite runs, and why?
“Visiting the Snow Stake off of Chet’s so I can see how much new snow fell!!”—Cora Campbell, 7
“Magic carpet!” —Kai Campbell, 3.
I personally love steep and challenging terrain, so anything off of Chair 9 or down the Steeps off Chet’s are my favorite. When I’m with my kids, we enjoy Mambo (off of Chet’s) and the South Shoots (off of Ptarmigan). Also, stop at Ptarmigan’s Roost for an incredible view, good food and a quaint old-time, ski-lodge atmosphere!
5. How about traditions and events at Loveland?
In the spring, Loveland offers great live music on the sunny deck at the Basin, which can’t be beat. Popcorn, French fries, drinks, and friendly bartenders make the locals want to stay and hang out at Loveland long after the last chairs have stopped spinning.
6. What would be your tips for a family skiing Loveland for the first time?
Loveland Ski Area – Dustin Schaeffer
If everyone is a beginner skier, I would highly recommend at least a day of lessons at Loveland Valley for everyone. The instructors are incredible, and everyone will have a day of fun.
Loveland also offers a top-notch day-care center. We have enrolled our youngest in their daycare center while putting our oldest in ski school to allow my husband and I a day to ski challenging terrain. We were all incredibly happy at the end of the day!
~ Sarah Tuff Dunn
Sarah Tuff Dunn recently moved to Louisville, Colorado, with her husband, Carlton, and their two children, Dillon, 12, and Harper, 10. They’re looking forward to exploring the world-class skiing in Colorado, aided by the Colorado Ski Country 5th and 6th Grade Passport Program. Sarah has been writing professionally for nearly 25 years and her work has appeared in The New York Times, SKI, Skiing and Powder, among other publications. Read more of Sarah’s stories here and follow along with her Colorado skiing journey here.
Powder diary: A cross-Colorado trek and two big surprises
Wolf Creek Ski Area – Roseanne Pitcher
By R. Scott Rappold
Editor’s note: Our mountain correspondent and resident ski bum R. Scott Rappold missed several deadlines, did not respond to emails and his voicemail was full. We tracked him down in Steamboat Springs, where he had been sleeping on various sofas since it started snowing in early January, and convinced him to stop skiing long enough to file this report. Numerous threatening references to his editors have been omitted.
Where to begin?
Scott becomes one with the mountain when he is powder chasing
The last week has been a blur. Did I really drop everything to drive 5 hours across Colorado, past no fewer than four other ski areas, in search of powder?
Today was one of the best ski days of my life, two feet of snow at my home mountain of Wolf Creek in southern Colorado …. I should still be there, ripping powder and scoring endless face shots, but here I sit at this computer …. I should still be up there, braving the poor visibility and fierce winds with my friends who are still up there as I write this, skiing my lines and tracking up my powder.
But here I am off on a tangent.
It wasn’t like this here a week ago. Wolf Creek does boast the most snow in Colorado – 215″ so far this season – but like any ski resort, there are dry spells. Cruising groomers and hunting the last powder stashes are all well and good, and it’s always good to have a couple of days off the mountain to get work done and make sure my wife hasn’t left me. So like any ski bum, I can abide by the dry spells.
What I can’t abide is when it’s snowing somewhere else in Colorado and I’m not skiing it. That’s exactly what happened Jan. 2-4 when northern Colorado resorts got up to 18 inches. The flakes didn’t make it south.
There are plenty of meteorological reasons storms hit some parts of the mountains and not others, but my degree is in journalism so I won’t try to explain them. I’ll just say it’s a hell of a thing when a storm misses your mountain. A hell of a thing. And I vowed not to miss the next one.
Sure enough, by Jan. 7 more snow was in the forecast, and it looked like the storm would once again go north. So I decided I would have to as well.
Making the plan
I have three rules for chasing powder:
1) Never plan a trip more than 36 hours out. Mountain weather is difficult to forecast and long-term forecasts usually change so you want the best chance of being where the most snow will fall.
2) Never pay for a hotel room. No ski bum can afford those, especially in high-end mountain towns.
3) Always bring gifts for your host. Whether it’s someone you met online or a friend of a friend, you’re occupying their home and disrupting their life so bring a gift for God’s sake.
It just so happens I have a friend in Steamboat Springs, which appeared to be in the bulls-eye for the upcoming storm. A few text messages later and I was packing my bag and loading the car for the long drive, 260 miles and three of the snowiest mountain passes in Colorado.
Then I remembered the fourth rule of chasing powder: Make sure your spouse or significant other doesn’t mind.
She didn’t, so off I went – after doing the dishes and laundry to ease my guilt for spending all our money skiing while she went to work.
January 8
The snow was still a day away but I knew I wanted to be in place to get an early start on the powder day, so I left my home in Del Norte, in the San Luis Valley, around mid-morning, with a plan to stop by ski area Cooper, near Leadville, for a couple of runs to break up the drive.
The View from Cooper Mountain – Scott Rappold
Cooper is known as a small, family-friendly area, which it is. It also has beautiful views of the two highest peaks in Colorado – Mount Elbert and Mount Massive – and great, wide-open, uncrowded groomers. An hour up here and I was refreshed for the second leg of my drive.
It just so happened I had a cousin from Florida visiting Steamboat for the annual country music festival, and no, she and her friends wouldn’t mind if I slept on the couch in their condo for a night.
As we caught up and tried to figure out if we had actually met in person before, moisture moved into the atmosphere over Steamboat. Water crystals began to freeze and attach to other crystals until the became heavy enough to fall to the earth.
Snow. I almost cried it had been so long.
January 9
Steamboat Springs Lodging – Scott Rappold
Unfortunately, we stayed up too late catching up over cocktails and rose slowly. By the time we got onto the gondola at 9:50 a.m., it looked like the 4 inches that fell overnight were tracked out.
Steamboat is a massive resort, 2,695 acres, making it one of the largest ski areas in Colorado, so my cousin and I were still able to find plenty of powder stashes. She’s been coming here for years, while it was my first time, so she showed me around and I tried to learn the lay of the land. The sun was out, the snow was soft and I felt happy and content for the first time in many days. And for Floridians, she and her friends were pretty darn good skiers.
Not wanting to wear out my welcome (and needing a more comfortable couch to sleep on) I headed for my friend’s house, where we talked and laughed and enjoyed too many beers and watched the next wave of snow move in.
January 10
Not wanting to risk missing the fresh powder, I woke up early instead of getting extra sleep like the day before. (Not that I didn’t stay up late enjoying cocktails with my friend. I just got less sleep than the night before.)
I was somewhat disappointed. The snow report said only 6 inches and the snow in town had stopped.
Steamboat Springs
Chasing powder can be a crapshoot. You win some and you lose some and I decided it would be fun to ski anything fresh after the dry spell I had weathered. So we made for first chair, hopping on only a few minutes after the lifts started.
Then came the surprise: It was still dumping. It was pounding snow, nuking snow. On my very first turn of my very first run, I knew all the effort and money and strain on my marriage was worth it. Steamboat is where they coined the phrase “champagne powder,” and it was indeed some of the lightest and fluffiest snow I had ever skied. And it was deep, waist-deep in spots.
I let my friend guide me around. When the named runs were tracked out we made for the trees. When the trees were tracked out we hiked. I heard from several locals it was the best day of the season so far.
I love it when a plan comes together.
January 11
It was time for me to head home since the house was crowded and more guests were coming. Plus I could barely walk after skiing 30,000 vertical feet.
I thanked my friend and repaid him for the hospitality by shoveling his driveway (not to mention buying most of the beer during my stay.) It was snowing heavily on the mountain with more on the way, but it was time to go home.
Plus, snow was on the way. The wind had switched directions and was coming from the southwest, which happens to favor southern Colorado. So I drove right past Copper Mountain, despite the fact it was snowing heavily, and Monarch Mountain too.
Chasing powder is a crapshoot like I said. Would I come up lucky?
January 12
As I woke up in my own bed, the Wolf Creek snow report said 1 inch. Better than nothing, I decided, and dragged myself out of bed. As it turned out, the snow was just getting going. The report was 5 inches by lunchtime and it kept coming. Of course, after such a long dry spell, there was crunchy snow underneath, but it was disappearing fast and I was just glad to see flakes back in the sky here.
Traveling is nice, but there’s nothing like skiing your own mountain, where you know the terrain and the people and know you get to sleep in your own bed that night.
Then came the next surprise.
January 13
I got up early, as usual, to a snow report of 5 inches overnight. Not a huge powder day, but on top of the previous day’s total, I knew it would be fun.
I helped my wife get off to work (behind every great ski bum is someone earning a steady paycheck) and raced up to the mountain. The forecast called for up to 12 inches so I grabbed my powder skis.
It was snowing hard as if two weeks’ worth of powder pleas by us locals had risen into the atmosphere and burst as snow. By mid-morning, the snow report was 14 inches. By late afternoon it was 19 inches. That made my local hill the snowiest ski area in Colorado (or, for that matter, Utah.)
It was one of the best days of the season, every turn blinding and choking you with snow, which for powder lovers is a good problem to have. “Hero snow,” someone called it because you can turn so effortlessly any skier can feel like a hero as long as you don’t fall and get buried. It kept dumping so hard the morning’s tracks were covered after lunch.
I will be going back tomorrow, and the next day, and the next day. Because I thought of a way to end this story:
“I wish I had worked more,” said nobody on their death bed ever.
Scott Rappold
R. Scott Rappold is a journalist with more than 20 years of experience, including 10 at The Colorado Springs Gazette, where he wrote about skiing, hiking, camping and all the things that make Colorado great. He is now a full-time ski bum who writes when he needs money for beer or lift tickets. He lives in Colorado’s beautiful San Luis Valley. Read more of Scott’s stories here.
Sweet Sensations – Where To Get Your Sugar Fix at Copper, Winterpark and Aspen
Suglarlips – Copper Mountain
Tiny handcrafted donuts, incendiary hot cocoa, and nostalgic candy: Here’s where to get your sugar fix in Aspen, Winter Park and Copper.
Aspen
Fluffy Pow, Fluffy Pancakes
Some businesses in ski country threaten to shut down on powder days, a boon for their employees. But here’s an even better twist on the eight-inch rule: When it dumps more than eight inches overnight, the Powder Pancakes program kicks in at all four mountains at Aspen-Snowmass. New this season, on big powder days, skiers and riders can fuel up on a hot stack of free pancakes at designated area restaurants. Powder Pancakes will be on offer from 10 to 11 a.m., anytime it the snow stake measures 8 inches or more overnight.
The Hotel Jerome is offering a new indulgent take on cocoa called Ice & Fire hot chocolate, and it’s served, with fanfare, in the hotel’s Living Room. To make the rich creamy drink, baristas pour homemade hot chocolate in a cup and top it with a hand-crafted marshmallow and a scoop of house-made sorbet. O.F.T.D. over-proofed rum is warmed in a Turkish coffee pot. At the table, the rum is set on fire and poured on top of the hot chocolate. Once the flame is out, the concoction is then mixed together and a dusting of cinnamon on top makes it sparkle just so. You’ll never drink Swiss Miss again.
Pop-Up Sweet Shop and a Killer Dessert Menu
Beginning January 23, Hotel Jerome will also host a week-long pop-up shop in The Library with Baked, a classic American bakery with outposts in Brooklyn, Manhattan, and Tokyo. After the pop-up week, the hotel will continue to carry the sweet treats for the remainder of the season. And be sure to look for the Sweet Vice menu at The Jerome’s Bad Harriet, which will go live this month with a lineup of decadent desserts. The Diablo Cupcake Trio features Mocha-Espresso & Sambuca, Double Chocolate Chunk & Death’s Door Wondermint Schnapps, and Sticky Toffee & Bailey Irish Cream.
Calling All Cookie Monsters
At Meat & Cheese, in addition to the meat & cheese board, the pâté board, and the biscuit board, you’ll find the eatery’s popular cookie board. Cookie options rotate daily, and the sweet treats are paired with vanilla milk.
Not Just for Camping
I long-standing tradition in Aspen, guests at St. Regis Aspen Resort are treated to complimentary fireside s’mores in the hotel’s Fountain Courtyard daily from 4 to 5 p.m.
Winter Park
Candy as Carrot
Treeline Treats – Winter Park
A stop into Treeline Treats at Winter Park is the carrot I dangle with my daughter so she’ll ski a few more runs. Treeline Treats has bulk bins of Swedish Fish, Gummi Bears, sour rainbow stripes, and nostalgic candy like gumballs and jawbreakers. At $6.50 for a half-pound, you can get a decent-size baggie of candy for only a couple bucks. (Use your Winter Park or Ikon Pass for a discount.) Kids can whisper to a pal across the shop through a series of colored pipes that carry sound. Try a box of Bean Boozled, one of the shop’s top sellers. The box comes with a spinner that dictates the flavor of jelly beans you must eat. Hope for the “toasted marshmallow” jelly bean, but be prepared to endure “stinky socks” or “spoiled milk.”
Winter Waffology
Peter Creyf and Ingrid Heyrman started selling waffles out of a pushcart in Boston’s Quincy Market in 1998. A lightbulb went off somewhere, and the duo approached ski areas with their breakfast turned grab-and-go concept. Turns out, skiers and riders like waffles.
Winter Park has three Waffle Cabins, one in the village between the Burton and Columbia shops, a second at the base near the Gemini lift, and a third that’s on-mountain at the base of the Looking Glass and Olympia Express lifts. The cabins serve up Liège-style Belgian Sugar Waffles with the option of drizzling Belgian chocolate on top. It’s a portable sweet and buttery snack to keep you going on the slopes or as an après treat.
On the Way Home
On the other side of Berthoud Pass from Winter Park—on the way home for many Winter Park skiers and riders—Empire is the perfect place for a high-calorie pitstop. The Dairy King has soft-serve ice cream, and across the street, the eclectic Lewis Sweet Shop, an Empire institution for 70 years, has candy and ice cream but also deep-fried everything. Deep-fried pickles, okra, green beans, and even deep-fried mac ‘n’ cheese.
Copper Mountain
Camp Hale – Copper Mountain
Pop-Up Shop (Part II)
Relatively new to Copper’s village is City Pop (see above; the chain is in Winter Park, too), perched in a rustic cabin-like building overlooking West Lake. The hand-crafted gourmet popcorn comes in 70 inventive flavors from s’mores to peppermint bark to butterscotch.
New Pastry Chef
Thomas Janusz, who trained at Le Cordon Blue College of the Culinary Arts in Chicago, is the new pastry chef at Copper Mountain, and he’s cranking out a delicious assortment of freshly made pastries and sweet treats each morning at the Camp Hale Coffee & Wine Bar in Center Village. Janusz recommends the mocha cake. “It’s my rendition of the classic French Opera cake, which is one of the first “pastries” I learned how to make,” he says. The cake is made up of three layers of almond sponge soaked with coffee and simple syrup, with layers of coffee French-style buttercream and whipped chocolate ganache, all topped with a chocolate glaze. “It has remained my favorite for now for over 20 years, Janusz says. Grab a latte and a delectable goodie from Camp Hale’s pastry case to start your day—or a slab of French Opera cake and a glass of wine to cap the day.
Fresh and Hot
Locally owned Sugar Lips Mini Donuts is a Copper Mountain institution. It’s located in a small log cabin with turquoise trim on the windows at the top of West Lake (look for the ice skaters). The delightful tiny donuts are made to order, served piping hot and dusted with toppings like cinnamon sugar. Sugar Lips also has ice cream and coffee drinks.
Mountain Top Cookies and Crepe Stand
Locally owned and operated, Mountaintop serves up cookies, ice cream, candies, and crepes. Try the dipped cookies or a crepe with Nutella and strawberry. Gluten-free options are available.
Join In on the Fun at Copper Mountain’s Safety Fest
Flight For Life – Copper Mountain – Curtis DeVore
Mark your calendars once again for the largest and most fun safety event of the season at Copper Mountain’s 11th annual Safety Fest presented by Nokian Tyres Jan. 18-19. As part of the National Ski Area Association’s (NSAA) Safety Awareness Month, Copper Mountain welcomes skiers, snowboarders and winter enthusiasts to a weekend of education, prizes and more.
From Saturday, Jan. 18 to Sunday, Jan. 19, Eagles Landing in Copper’s Center Village will transform into Safety Village with Nokian Tyres, Woodward Copper, US Forest Service, Summit Huts Association, ThinkFirst-St. Anthony, CMC Snow Science Program and many more partners on hand to provide information about slope safety, winter driving, backcountry awareness and Copper’s safety initiatives.
In addition to the Safety Village open from 9 a.m. – 3:30 p.m. each day, a variety of activities are scheduled throughout the weekend:
Nokian Tyres Green Tire Giveaway: Win a set of Nokian Tyres on Saturday by following along on Copper’s Instagram or Facebook stories as clues are shared on where the green tire may be hidden on the mountain.
Flight for Life helicopter tour: At 10 a.m. on Saturday, meet the pilot and medics at the top of the Excelerator lift outside Patrol Headquarters and get a tour of Copper’s air-transport helicopter.
Copper Avalanche Dogs in action: On Saturday and Sunday, watch Fido search and find a buried avalanche victim. Takes place at 11 a.m. in Center Village and 12:30 p.m. in West Village.
Avalanche Airbag Demonstration: At 2 p.m. each day, meet at the CMC Snow Science booth in the Safety Village to watch an avalanche airbag demonstration.
Close the mountain with Ski Patrol: Ever wonder how ski patrol “sweeps” and closes the mountain? Sign up at the Junior Ski Patrol booth and spend the afternoon clearing the slopes with the professionals.
Daily raffle prize giveaways: Guests who visit each safety tent will be entered into a daily prize drawing at 3:30 p.m. in Burning Stones Plaza. Top prizes include 2 nights lodging, season pass, parking passes, tubing, ski tunes, helmets, restaurant gift cards and more.
Free hot cocoa: stop by Timberline Ski Patrol during the month of January. Get some insider tips from ski patrol as you sip your cocoa!
New Tobaggan Races: Guest toboggan races at 11:30 a.m. and 3 p.m. in Eagles Landing. Grab a friend and see who can be the fastest pulling their friend across the snow for prizes.
For a full schedule of activities and events as part of Safety Fest, visit coppercolorado.com.
About Copper Mountain:
Located just 75 miles west of Denver, Colo. in the heart of the Rocky Mountains, Copper Mountain Resort is an ideal vacation destination with a laid-back and inclusive vibe that represents the best of Colorado. Three pedestrian-friendly village areas provide a vibrant atmosphere with lodging, retail outlets, restaurants, bars and family activities. During the winter months, Copper’s naturally-divided terrain offers world-class skiing and riding for all ages and abilities. Each summer, the mountain transforms into an unspoiled playground for hikers, mountain bikers and those seeking a genuine Colorado experience. Copper Mountain Resort boasts curated events year-round and is home toWoodward Copper – a lifestyle and action sports progression center. Copper Mountain is part of thePOWDR Adventure Lifestyle Co. portfolio, a family-owned company that believes there is nothing better for your soul than to spend time with the people you love, doing the things you love
Aspen Skiing Company Sets Up Australia Wildfire Relief Fund; Will Match the First $12,500 in Contributions
Australian Bushfires – CNBC
As the wildfires in Australia continue to rage, Aspen Skiing Company has created an Australia Wildfire Relief Fund to assist in this time of need. Aspen Skiing Company’s Family Fund will match the first $12,500 in contributions with proceeds going directly to the Australian Red Cross.
“What a beautiful gesture of much-needed support as the fires have devastated so many Aussie communities, people’s livelihoods and countless animals and wildlife,” says Torah Bright, Australian snowboard athlete and Olympic gold medalist. “It’s incredible to see Aspen Skiing Company and the whole Aspen and U.S. snow community getting behind Australia and supporting everyone affected by the devastating fires.”
To donate to the fund now, visit www.aspensnowmass.com/ausrelief. Aspen Skiing Company will be accepting donations until Australia Day, Jan. 26, 2020.
Also, the Roaring Fork Valley community has already supported the cause by donating over $25,000 worth of prizes to a silent auction on Australia’s dedicated snow travel website, Snowsbest.com. All proceeds from the silent auction will go towards wildfire relief efforts. Aspen Snowmass properties rallied to the call, with eight packages donated from the Limelight Hotel Aspen, the Limelight Hotel Snowmass, the Hotel Jerome, the St. Regis, The Gant, North of Nell, Destination Residences Snowmass and the new W Hotel Aspen. Details regarding the silent auction will be released on SnowsBest.com in the coming weeks.
With the immense impact of the wildfires, our hearts and thoughts are with all of our Australian friends and guests. Aspen Skiing Company will continue to work hard to combat the global climate crisis for not only the future of Australia, but also the future of the world.
Glide, Slide and Ride: Alternative Ways to Go Through the Snow
Cross Country Skiing at Eldora
I have a dirty little secret. As much as I love downhill skiing, and as much as I’ve written about the sport during the past 25-odd years, a part of me often pines for shimmying through the forest on a pair of cross-country skis. My 11-year-old son and 13-year-old daughter, meanwhile, have taken a liking to tubing, and my husband’s fallen in love with fat biking.
So every once in a while, we sneak off to participate in some of these off-piste activities at Colorado Ski Country resorts. Downhill skiing will always be there, but sometimes, it’s fun to enjoy an alternative affair.
Cross-country skiing: Closest to our home in Louisville, we have what Eldora Mountain Resort calls “40 Kilometers of Freedom” at the Nordic Center, where beginner trails such as Dixie and Snowcat give way to more advanced terrain on Gandy Dancer and Woodcutter. Day tickets are $25 for adults and $16 for kids at non-peak times, and lessons and rental gear are available, too. A bit farther afield, you’ll find 90 kilometers of trails weaving among Aspen, Snowmass and Basalt—all for free. Both the Aspen and Snowmass Cross Country Centers offer rentals, lessons and tours.
Tubing at Winter Park
Tubing: Some of the biggest belly laughs (and belly flops) my family and I have shared have happened on the tubing hills, where we fly, bump and spin into the night. At Winter Park, three separate lanes with banked curves, plus a conveyer belt to take tubers to the tap, create a killer après-ski option—as does the warming hut with hot chocolate for the kids and something stronger for the adults. Copper, meanwhile, offers 1-hour tubing sessions on the hour, every hour, most days from
Fat Biking at Steamboat Resort
Biking: Who says you have to stash your bike when winter arrives? Around Steamboat Springs, fat biking options abound for powderhounds sniffing a new way to explore such runs as Right-O-Way and BC Ski Way; find rentals at Wheels Bike Shop. Or head to Granby Ranch to whiz downhill on an outrigger-equipped ski bike. It’s a wheelie good time.
Sarah Tuff Dunn
Sarah Tuff Dunn recently moved to Louisville, Colorado, with her husband, Carlton, and their two children, Dillon, 12, and Harper, 10. They’re looking forward to exploring the world-class skiing in Colorado, aided by the Colorado Ski Country 5th and 6th Grade Passport Program. Sarah has been writing professionally for nearly 25 years and her work has appeared in The New York Times, SKI, Skiing and Powder, among other publications. Read more of Sarah’s stories here and follow along with her Colorado skiing journey here.
Night Moves: Where to ski and ride after dark in Colorado
Night skiing at Steamboat Resort
By Sarah Tuff Dunn
Last chair, 2:30. Last chair: 3:15. Last chair: 4pm. Sigh. Signs that another ski day is about to come to a close in Colorado Ski Country.
Or are they? Because there’s no such thing as last chair (or one in the afternoon, anyway) when you can click back into your skis or strap into your snowboard at one of these ski areas for much less than the cost of a regular lift ticket once the rest of the world has retreated into their cars, the bars and their condos.
Steamboat Springs: Starting at 5:30 p.m., head to the Christie Peak Express to climb to 8,000 feet and hit Sitz, See Me, Vogue, Stampede and L’il. tickets from $29.
Granby Ranch: Twenty miles from Winter Park, Granby Ranch features four special nights of skiing from 5 to 8 p.m.—December 28, January 15, February 15 and March 14. Just $15 gets you free hot chocolate and cookies, too.
Night Skiing at Echo Mountain
Echo Mountain: This newly revitalized resort now offers skiing and riding Wednesday through Saturday nights from 4:30 to 9 p.m.; rip intermediate trails for $30 when you buy tickets in advance online.
Skiing and riding, my family and I have found—first in New England and now in Colorado—take on a new dimension after dark. Conversations become a bit deeper as we ride the lift, peering down below at the lights’ spellbinding glow. We count the stars as they begin to pinprick the indigo sky, and sip from a tiny Thermos of hot chocolate tucked into my parka. And then we slide off into the night, simultaneously enveloped by darkness and illuminated by light. The only last chair seems to be the one dancing in our heads as we finally head home and drift off to sleep.
Sarah Tuff Dunn
Sarah Tuff Dunn recently moved to Louisville, Colorado, with her husband, Carlton, and their two children, Dillon, 12, and Harper, 10. They’re looking forward to exploring the world-class skiing in Colorado, aided by the Colorado Ski Country 5th and 6th Grade Passport Program. Sarah has been writing professionally for nearly 25 years and her work has appeared in The New York Times, SKI, Skiing and Powder, among other publications. Read more of Sarah’s stories here and follow along with her Colorado skiing journey here.
Mug Shots: Where to get the best hot drinks at Colorado ski resorts
The Coffee Cowboy in Telluride
By Sarah Tuff Dunn
One of the best things about being a ski parent is reverting back to childhood behavior—not so much the dragging of skis across the parking lot or throwing a temper tantrum face down in the snow, but more playing in the powder and, at the end of the day (or, heck, any time of day), sipping a mug of steaming, marshmallow-topped hot chocolate.
These days, Colorado Ski Country resorts brew up way more than the standard pre-mixed stuff poured from a spigot. Here are a few of our favorite winter warmers, straight up and spiked alike, served with a twist at unique ski-area spots.
Camp Hale – Copper Mountain
Camp Hale Coffee Company, Copper Mountain: Smack dab at the base of Copper, Camp Hale has lips smacking with such adult beverages as the Coppercino, made with St. Brendan’s Irish cream, Michael Collins Irish whiskey, and Kahlua coffee liqueur with a shot of espresso. Designated drivers and kids can enjoy a white hot chocolate topped with whipped cream and caramel syrup, among other offerings.
Steamboat Covered Wagon, Steamboat: The only thing better than hot chocolate is free hot chocolate, and the only thing better than free hot chocolate is free donut holes for dipping. Steamboat gets it right with complimentary “Champagne Powder Day” donut holes and cocoa at the covered wagon (across from the Steamboat Stage) daily at 3 p.m.
Snoasis in Winter Park
Snoasis, Winter Park: At the bottom of the Eskimo and Prospector ski lifts, this throwback escape from the wintry weather brews specialty drinks while also serving up bluebird-sky views. Or, for a real afternoon pick-me-up, venture to The Perk around 4:20 for the 420—four shots of espresso and 20 ounces of steamed hemp milk.
Coffee Cowboy, Telluride: A converted horse trailer in downtown Telluride, the Coffee Cowboy offers such aromatic après drinks as Lone Ranger (mocha with caramel) and Butch Cassidy (mocha with Irish cream). They’re on the high-end, at $5.25 apiece for a 16-ounce, but playing cowboys like a kid? That’s priceless.
Sarah Tuff Dunn
Sarah Tuff Dunn recently moved to Louisville, Colorado, with her husband, Carlton, and their two children, Dillon, 12, and Harper, 10. They’re looking forward to exploring the world-class skiing in Colorado, aided by the Colorado Ski Country 5th and 6th Grade Passport Program. Sarah has been writing professionally for nearly 25 years and her work has appeared in The New York Times, SKI, Skiing and Powder, among other publications. Read more of Sarah’s stories here and follow along with her Colorado skiing journey here.
Skiing Aspen Highlands and Finding the Hidden ‘Après Ski Club’
Loge Peak – Alec Stowell
By Alec Stowell
Shortly before the new year, I got the opportunity to ski at Aspen Highlands – one of the four Aspen Snowmass ski areas. Some locals say it’s their favorite due to the abundance of powder they tend to get by mid-season. I had grown up skiing at Snowmass and Buttermilk, but this was my first go-round at this location, and it was absolutely gorgeous.
Aspen Highlands – Alec Stowell
Being that it was right after Christmas and I was spending time with family, I went with my brother and uncle. We went up on a morning that at first looked like we were in for a low visibility and frigidly cold day, so we were prepared as such. We ended up being extremely overprepared. The sun was out and encapsulated the entire mountain by the time we got there, and it was by far the best visibility I had gotten skiing all season, at any of the ski areas.
Alec and his family at Aspen Highlands – Alec Stowell
Normally, when new to a ski area, I tend to take my time exploring the mountain and lifts to see what runs and trails I like best. My uncle had only one day in Colorado to ski, however, so we had to just get after it. We considered doing the Highland Bowl, which was recommended to us by the liftees, but again we wanted to get the most runs in possible so we decided to hit the runs that we wouldn’t have to hike to.
Aspen HIghlands – Alec Stowell
From Highlands Village, we took the Exhibition and Loge Peak lifts to gain as much elevation as possible. The views going up Loge Peak to the top are absolutely breathtaking. It helped that we went on such a sunny and clear day but wow, I’m not exaggerating when I say it’s like you’re looking at a painting on both sides.
Loge Peak – Aspen Highlands – Alec Stowell
From there, our best bet outside of the Highland Bowl was to hit Temerity and Steeplechase – two runs that’ll be sure to get your heart pumping and legs burning, especially if that’s what you’re going to start out with. In retrospect, I wish we had warmed up a little bit first, but it definitely felt like we were getting our workout in. It’s a steep stretch of terrain with almost strictly moguls all the way down the mountain until you get to the Deep Temerity lift, which is your only way back to the top. So, if that type of terrain isn’t for you, I would just steer clear of it. If it is, it’s a ton of fun with some great snow conditions, tree run opportunities, and some beautiful views that are exclusive to these runs.
Aspen Highlands – Alec Stowell
After really wearing ourselves out for a few hours on these runs we had to refuel. After looking at the trail map, we were drawn to the Cloud Nine Alpine Bistro which you can get to from Loge Peak by taking the Broadway run, as long as you keep far left. We didn’t know what to expect but they had big sundeck with gorgeous views of the mountain range off to the right, so we opted to sit out there.
Had it not been such a beautiful day, we also had the option to sit inside where the décor was that of a five-star restaurant. We were promptly greeted and given a menu to which we discovered they were going for a swiss-esque culinary style. The price was a little costly, but the all the food we saw getting delivered to tables looked outstanding with their specialty being fondue dishes. We settled on the Steak Tartare to make sure we could eat quickly and still get as many runs in as possible. Between the food, the service, and the views, we couldn’t ask for a much better lunch experience.
Cloud Nine Alpine Bistro – Aspen Highlands – Alec Stowell
Prior to leaving, our server mentioned that their restaurant completely transforms into what he called an ‘Après Ski Club’ after 2 PM. He said it’s an experience not to miss as people of all ages (over 21) come together to make the most of their après ski adventure. He also let us know that due to the gorgeous weather, we came on a perfect day to enjoy the sundeck in all its glory. We were convinced at that point.
We set out for the second half of our day which consisted of more of the same from the morning but also some blues here and there to give our legs a little rest. We wanted to give ourselves time to check out the Après Ski Club but still wanted to make sure skiing was our priority. We skied up until the Deep Temerity lift closed which was at 3, so after that, we made our way towards Cloud Nine Alpine Bistro once more.
Cloud Nine Alpine Bistro – Apres Club – Aspen Highlands – Alec Stowell
We didn’t even need to know the route by memory this time around, the music was so loud that it guided us. We arrived to a packed house. People were on the tables dancing, popping champagne, having drinks and chatting with one another. The bar on the sundeck is easy to spot as it hosts massive bottles of champagne and wine to lure in après ski guests. It is 21+, so if you’re interested in attending, make sure you have your ID if you look like you may be underage, or you will not be let in.
We spent about 45 minutes there having a couple of drinks and dancing while basking in the remainder of that beautiful day’s sunlight. We peeked inside, just to see what that was like and that was even crazier. A similar environment to that outside, but with the close proximity of things everything was ramped up and the music was even louder.
You may think that this is strictly a young person’s vibe, but we took note of people old and young enjoying this unique après ski experience. We were glad we stopped at that location for lunch because had we not, it’s pretty unlikely that we would’ve made it back for the afternoon hoorah. Our server told us it’s pretty well known by locals but a hidden gem for those visiting from out of town, so I’d recommend it to anyone interested – it really was a great time and the fact that you’re up on the mountain makes it that much better.
Aspen Highlands – Alec Stowell
At 4 PM they make sure that the party is over and send everyone back down the mountain in the best interest of everyone’s safety. That was the conclusion of our day at Aspen Highlands but will definitely not be my last day there this season. You can’t go wrong with any of the Aspen Snowmass ski areas and depending on what you are looking for, some mountains will suit you better than others. But if you’re going out on a limb and want to have a unique après ski experience, consider making Aspen Highlands your next Aspen Snowmass destination.
Alec Stowell
Alec Stowell is a senior at the University of Colorado Boulder. He is majoring in Journalism and minoring in Business with a focus in entrepreneurship. He was born in Glenwood Springs and grew up skiing in the roaring fork valley. Being active and exploring the outdoors has always been a huge priority to him – everything from skiing, basketball, mountain biking, hiking, and more have all been hobbies of his for as long as he can remember. Early in his education, he discovered a passion for writing and so when the opportunity came along to both ski and write, he was ecstatic. After graduation, he hopes to still be able to pursue a career in which he can combine his passion for writing and the outdoors, but is still figuring out what the future holds. For now, he is looking forward to making the most out of his ski season with Colorado Ski Country.
Learning To Ski In Your Twenties or Thirties
Echo Mountain
By Kathryn Robinson
There’s no right or wrong age to become a skier or snowboarder. No magic time period where you can learn with no effort, and no milestone at which you’re “too old” to get started. But for 20- and 30-somethings who are ready to take to the slopes for the first time, you might have a slightly different first-day experience than the 8-year-olds you’ll see in your beginner lesson. Here’s what you should know.
January is the best time to learn
Once you’re through the stress, travel and expenses of the holidays and settled back into your routine, you can turn your attention to your New Year’s resolution – learning to ski or ride. January is Learn to Ski and Snowboard Month, which is your best bet for a smooth introduction to the sport. You’ll find amazing deals and discounts on lessons, lift tickets and rentals so you can start your season off on a high note. You can even find some lessons and professional instruction that are completely free, like Echo Mountain’s ambassador program that offers coaching, tips and suggestions free of charge in the beginner area.
For young adults who are strapping in for the first time, be sure to pick a lesson program meant for beginners. If you’ve got a few friends who are eager to learn with you, consider a private lesson, which usually accommodates up to four skiers or riders.
Packing for your first day on the slopes
Now that you’ve picked a ski area for your first trip and booked a lesson, you’ll be wondering what you need to bring with you. For an adult first-timer, I recommend renting your gear instead of purchasing before your first day. But if you’re determined to stick with the sport, consider a season rental – In addition to keeping your gear until the mountains close in the spring, it also includes swapping out gear mid-season if you want to try out different options.
Try to avoid the common mistake that I made – In my early twenties, before I’d ever stepped foot on a snowboard, I went ahead and bought a board, boots, bindings, goggles, helmet, ski clothing, and a ski pass – in total, more than $1,000 invested before I knew if I even enjoyed it. Luckily for me, I fell in love with snowboarding, but in hindsight, I would have rented some of that gear and learned more before I went all in.
In addition to the gear itself, you’ll need to bring winter clothing – water-resistant pants and jacket, plus a warm hat. If you don’t own these things, some mountains will let you rent them – be sure to call ahead to ask. They’re also available for purchase at the base of most ski areas. Don’t forget the sunscreen, chapstick, thick wool socks, lunch, and a few dollars for afternoon après ski at the bar in celebration of your triumph.
What to expect from your time on the mountain
You will be cold. You will be tired. You will be more exhilarated and feel more alive than you’ve felt in years. Learning to ski or snowboard is an amazing experience at any age, and you’ll feel a sense of adventure and accomplishment when you think back on your first-day skiing or riding.
You might find the learning curve requires a few days on the mountain before you get the hang of it, or you might be ready to tackle a green run before lunch on your first day. You will undoubtedly find that elementary-age children zoom past you while you master the basics. Any with any luck, you’ll also find a lifelong passion that will keep you active and happy for many years to come.
Kathryn Robinson is a native Floridian who transplanted to Colorado for graduate school and never looked back. She learned to ski for the first time in her early twenties and now she counts down the days until winter. When she’s not on the slopes, she’s working full-time in Denver, hiking, kayaking, or playing with her dog Riley.
Flight For Life – Copper Mountain – Curtis DeVore 
